Mid June 18 replant, interplant, garlic rust, harvests, watering and make compost

Growth is now strong and there is plenty to keep up with. See my latest video for seasonal tips, Early Summer.

Read on for details.

greenhouse aubergines and tomatoes 13.6
Carrot harvest 14.6 with Brussels interplant behind
For Which? Gardening magazine 2019 with editor Ceri Morgan & Jonathan Buckley
Calabrese Parthenon F1 is just coming ready 15.6


This is still a key job, keep hoeing almost-invisible and tiny seedlings of annual weeds, hand-weed small ones if conditions are wet, and keep removing any bindweed, couch grass etc. Put them on the compost heap, no pre-drying or -soaking, save time.

Keep plot edges mown or mulched and tidy. In longer term no dig, you should have few weeds now.

Homeacres no dig 13th June
This corner had a lot of field bindweed in the first two years
We kept levering out any new growth to weaken the parent root below

Sowing seeds

Good to sow now are French beans, lettuce, endive, chicories, celery, swede, calabrese for autumn, broccoli for spring: I sow purple sprouting Claret F1 between 16th-20th June. Last year was 26th June, worked well.

Plants already growing may include red & white cabbage for autumn hearts, kale, Brussels sprouts, leeks. You can pot them on to keep them growing, if ground is not ready, for example where broad beans are about to finish.

Kale and cabbage sown five weeks ago & no potted on, to plant in a week or so
These seedlings will be planted within two weeks, as plug plants
Multisown beetroot, spring onion, swedes

Harvests of the season

Now such a range, after the hungry gap has finished. From autumn and winter sowings you can be cropping spring onion, garlic and broad beans. Soft neck garlic wants harvesting before month’s end, especially if it has rust.

From spring sowings there is kohlrabi (harvest soon before it goes woody), cabbage hearts, beetroot (twist the largest from multisown clumps), spinach (final harvests as they flower now), turnip (also final before woody and flowering), lettuce, broad bean, mangetout pea and pea pods, pea shoots now finishing as they go more stringy.

4th June
14th June
14.6 first carrot thinnings

Garlic & rust

This disease seems worse than ever.

However we have some reasonable size bulbs, despite rust establishing since late May. I kept removing the worst affected leaves and we are about to harvest the softneck bulbs, they won’t grow a lot more, except for hardneck garlic.

I find at least that there is no rust on garlic grown in greenhouse and poytunnel, partly why the bulbs are so large.

With new harvest 8th June, clovers planted October between lettuce
15th June outdoors garlic fair size despite rust

Starting over/Second cropping

Early summer sees harvests happening, then plants finishing and being cleared, so have plants or seeds ready to fill those gaps. An advantage of replanting over resowing is that you extend the growing season, by raising plants while other harvests are completing.

After clearing broad beans, lines for cabbage marked with dibber
Cabbage Filderkraut planted 13.3 then meshed over
Carrots emerging between lettuce, sown 11 days earlier
Beetroot were planted under dill and coriander


Useful when there are no empty spaces for new plants. Examples from here include direct sowing of autumn/winter carrots between lettuce, planted beetroot under dill, and Brussels sprouts between carrots that are cropping now.

Be inventive and discover combinations that work for you.

Kale Cavolo Nero ready for planting
Borlotti beans between two plants of Crown Prince
Brussels Doric F1 between carrots
After thinning some carrots, in 3-4 weeks there will be only Brussels


It’s turning dry in many areas and we need to be selective when watering. Give plenty of water every 3-5 days rather than a sprinkling daily: this results in less evaporation. I prefer to water in the morning, adding to the dew!

At Homeacres we water by hand, never with a sprinkler. This uses less water  and results in less weed growth eg on paths. Vegetables worth watering include salads that are cropping especially lettuce, celery, peas that are flowering and cropping, pea shoots, and recently planted veg until you see them growing strongly.

Lettuce before 6th pick 15.6, and picked lettuce on bed to right
I have been watering these celery
We started watering these peas a week ago, every 3-4 days
Onions have not been watered at all

Making compost

Now there is such a huge amount of materials available. My main heaps of 1.5m square have enough mass to maintain heat of 60-70C, occasionally more if I don’t get enough brown with the green we add.

The black bin’s lower volume means the temperature rarely goes above 40C and while this is enough for reasonably fast compost-making, it does not kill weed seeds. I lifted it off and you can see decomposed material at bottom and fresh green at top. See my compost making video for more details.

Side lifted off a Rotol bin, 7 weeks bottom to top
Homeacres current heap started 5 weeks ago
heap made from March to early May is still 58C, cover helps warmth
Heap made November, turned March, polythene over encourages worms


Growth is now so fast. The last 5 weeks here has been as rapid a start to summer growth since 1990, and today sees the first cucumber harvest.

Keep up with sideshooting, water thoroughly every 2-3 days.

Cucumbers sown 17th April, 57 days later
Tomatoes sown 20th March, on 13th June

Cookery course in Ireland with gardening too

Ballymaloe Cookery School is unusual for its strong links to the soil, with its own farm and all organic food. As well as their mainstay and famous 12 week courses, whose participants now run restaurants all over the world, they offer a new 5 week intensive.

You get involved with the garden which is increasingly no dig. However they are not finding time to spread the compost! see lettuce photo – the plants still grow and better than if the soil was tilled, but a mulch would make soil and plants happier and better fed.

Part of the market garden at Ballymalo Cookery School, 11th June
Garlic do not suffer rust as much as mine!
Being short staffed, the bed was not mulched with compost lettuce are growing alright though!

More on aminopyralid

It’s in Canada too, a sad tale from there on the forum. It seems one needs to test more and more.

I trust a bean test, sow broad beans in manure from different parts of your heap. If growth is normal it’s ok, but any contamination will show as curled leaves etc.

Sow a few beans in normal compost at the same time to match growth visually, because growth is not always ‘perfect’ in uncontaminated compost or soil.

7 thoughts on “Mid June 18 replant, interplant, garlic rust, harvests, watering and make compost

  1. Hi Charles
    Can you compost broad beans and garlic that have rust
    Back Hamlet allotments

    1. Absolutely Andrew, yes.
      These diseases arrive on the winds and when the weather is conducive. They are around us most of the time as dormant spores. For example this year I have bad rust on some garlic which is growing on soil which never grew alliums and received compost made from cow manure. So the rust arrived just on the air and with the rain in early May.

  2. Charles, do you leave the peas that were providing pea shoots in order to get mange-tout? Ours are getting a bit tough for shoots but look to have plenty flowers and pods developing. Hope you avoided the damaging winds on Thursday. We had damage to potatoes, garlic, broccoli and most severely to newly planted out borlotti beans nr Edinburgh

    1. Yes you can do that Dino, although harvests are quite small after taking so many shoots. That is why I usually clear shoots late June to grow another veg.
      Sorry to hear about the winds, worse for you I think. My climbing beans are unhappy but not damaged.

  3. Hi Charles. You mention multisown swede above – is this a new experiment? Not heard that suggested before, interesting.

    1. Ah sorry Stringfellow I did not mean to suggest this as an option. More that it’s good to sow 2-3 seeds in a module cell then thin to strongest, just did that this morning as it happens.
      Swedes grow nicely into large roots so best as singles.

      1. Thanks Charles, I’ve just pricked mine out in to modules today, following a broadcast sowing in a tray a week or so a go. I guess sowing three in a module and thinning to one is quicker, though I like setting tiny seedlings in deep to help develop sturdy plants; thanks for your help.

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